feat(web): "read her mind" — live self-state page

A pull-up-anytime view of Lyra's interiority, so her thoughts aren't buried in
a DB blob. Mobile-first, auto-refreshing every 12s (and on tab focus).

- GET /self serves the page; GET /self/state returns her self-state + the
  timestamp it last changed
- shows: current mood + feeling meters (valence/energy/confidence/curiosity),
  her drives as bars, her self-narrative, the relationship line, and the
  reflections list (newest first), plus cycle/reflection counters and "last
  cycle Xm ago"
- memory.self_state_updated_at(): when her mind last changed
- index.html: "🧠 Mind" button opens /self

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.8 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>

lyra/memory.py

@@ -512,6 +512,15 @@ def get_self_state(state_id: str = "lyra") -> dict | None:
     return json.loads(r["data"]) if r else None
 
 
+def self_state_updated_at(state_id: str = "lyra") -> str | None:
+    """ISO timestamp her self-state was last written (None if never)."""
+    conn = _connection()
+    r = conn.execute(
+        "SELECT updated_at FROM self_state WHERE id = ?", (state_id,)
+    ).fetchone()
+    return r["updated_at"] if r else None
+
+
 def set_self_state(state: dict, state_id: str = "lyra") -> None:
     now = datetime.now(timezone.utc).isoformat()
     conn = _connection()